The Portly Suit. Just the phrase conjures images of distinguished gentlemen, confident and comfortable in their own skin. But achieving that classic look isn’t as simple as throwing on any old suit. For the portly man, finding a suit that flatters and fits perfectly can be a challenge. This guide is here to help you navigate the world of tailoring and embrace the power of a well-fitted portly suit.
A middle-aged man getting fitted for a suit by a tailor
Understanding Body Shape and Proportions
The first step to finding the perfect portly suit is understanding your body shape. Men come in all sizes and shapes, and what looks good on one may not flatter another. Take the time to identify your proportions:
- Shoulder Width: Are your shoulders broad or narrow compared to your hips?
- Chest Size: Do you have a larger chest that needs accommodating?
- Stomach Area: Be honest about any extra weight around the midsection.
- Leg Length: Are your legs proportionate to your torso?
Once you have a clear picture of your body type, you can start looking for suits that will accentuate your best features.
Different shirt styles for men with larger stomachs
Fabric and Fit: The Foundations of a Flattering Suit
Fabric: Choosing the right fabric is crucial. For portly men, lightweight fabrics like wool crepe or linen blends offer breathability and comfort without adding bulk. Avoid heavy fabrics like tweed or velvet, as these can make you look larger than you are.
Fit: A well-fitted portly suit should skim your body without feeling tight. Here are some key fitting points:
- Shoulders: The shoulder seams should sit naturally on your shoulders, without pulling or bunching.
- Chest: The jacket should button comfortably without pulling across the chest. There should be enough room for you to move freely.
- Waist: The jacket should nip in slightly at the waist to create a flattering silhouette.
- Trouser Rise: Opt for a higher rise trouser to provide ample room in the seat and prevent the dreaded “plumber’s crack.”
- Trouser Leg: Choose a straight or slightly tapered leg opening to create a balanced look.
Styling Tips for the Portly Gentleman
- Vertical Lines are Your Friend: Pinstripes and subtle vertical patterns can create an elongating effect, making you appear taller and slimmer.
- Embrace Darker Colors: Navy, charcoal gray, and black are always flattering and slimming.
- Choose the Right Shirt and Tie: A well-fitting dress shirt in a solid color will complement your suit. Opt for a tie with a subtle pattern and a medium width.
- Don’t Forget the Accessories: A pocket square, tie bar, or lapel pin can add a touch of personality and sophistication to your look.
A selection of men's suit accessories like tie clips, pocket squares and cufflinks
Confidence is Key
Remember, the most important accessory you can wear with a portly suit is confidence. When you feel good in what you’re wearing, it shows. Own your style, and you’ll be sure to turn heads for all the right reasons.
FAQs about Portly Suits
Q: Where can I find a tailor who specializes in portly suits?
A: Look for tailors or menswear stores that specifically cater to larger sizes or offer made-to-measure services.
Q: Can I wear a double-breasted suit if I’m portly?
A: It’s best to stick with single-breasted suits, as double-breasted styles can add unnecessary bulk to the midsection.
Q: What kind of shoes look best with a portly suit?
A: Classic leather oxfords or loafers in black or brown are always a good choice.